Step Six: Mask (Lepana)

Hormonal fluctuations and compromised sebum quality—common during puberty (a phase of heightened pitta), pregnancy, menopause, or due to poor skincare and lifestyle choices—often lead to persistent skin issues such as acne, congestion, and pigmentation.

Classical Ayurvedic herbs like lodhra, chandana, and manjishtha, when combined with select clays, help balance oil production, clear congestion, and reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), dark patches, and blemishes.

Ideally, the skin benefits from a lepana 4–5 times a week as a therapeutic intervention to remain clear, calm, and radiant. Always apply using clean hands or a clean brush to avoid bacterial contamination.

In Ayurveda, lepana refers to a wet herbal masque, traditionally prepared by pounding and grinding herbs, seeds, flowers, and spices with natural diluents such as milk, honey, ghee, or herbal liquids to form a fresh paste.

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Ayurvedic Lepana for Oily, Acne-Prone & Hormonal Skin

What You Need

• 3 tablespoons Lodhra powder

• 3 tablespoons Multani mitti (Fuller’s earth)

• 3 tablespoons Manjishtha powder

• 3 tablespoons Chandana (sandalwood) powder

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How to Make & Store

• Mix all the powders thoroughly.

• Store in a dark glass jar away from moisture.

Shelf Life: Up to 1 year

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How to Apply

1. Take 1 tablespoon of the lepana powder in a glass bowl.

2. Add approximately 2 tablespoons of cool A2 milk
   (use almond milk for a vegan option), adjusting to make a fine, loose paste.

3. Wet the skin with milk. Avoid tap water, as it is alkaline and drying.

4. Using a brush or clean hands, apply evenly over the face, avoiding the eye and mouth area.

5. Leave on for 5 minutes only.

6. Rinse off gently and thoroughly before the mask dries completely.

⚠️ Important:
Allowing a mask to crack and dry fully strips the skin of moisture and reverses its benefits. Once dry, the lepana loses its potency and begins to dehydrate the skin.

Frequency: Use 2–3 times a week for visible and sustained results.

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What to Expect

This lepana:

• Deeply cleanses and decongests pores

• Absorbs excess oil without disturbing natural lipids

• Calms acne, pimples, and inflammatory eruptions

Herbal Actions

• Chandana, multani mitti, and milk are cooling and help in pitta shamana, reducing heat-induced inflammation.

• Multani mitti, being kashaya (astringent), naturally absorbs excess sebum and tightens pores.

• Lodhra and manjishtha work at deeper levels to improve skin clarity, tone, and pigmentation.

With regular use, acne subsides, eruptions calm, and spots and blemishes gradually lighten, leaving the skin balanced, clear, and luminous.

Step Four: Steam (Swedana)

Facial steaming, or swedana, is a time-honored Ayurvedic practice that deeply cleanses and rejuvenates the skin. Millennia ago, specialized swedana yantras were used, and detailed illustrations of these devices are still found in classical Ayurvedic texts. Unlike modern steam treatments, Ayurvedic swedana incorporates carefully selected herbs, chosen to address specific skin concerns—from cleansing and clarifying to detoxifying, unclogging pores, purifying, and removing deep-seated impurities.

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What You Need

• Facial steamer

• 1–2 cups water

• 1 tablespoon liquorice (Yashtimadhu) powder

• 1–2 toner ice cubes

• 5 drops frankincense essential oil (optional)

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How to Apply

1. If you don’t have a facial steamer, use a shallow, wide-mouthed pot and drape a light cotton sheet or baby bedsheet over your head to trap the steam. Facial steamer cups are also easily available online.

2. Add water and liquorice powder to the steamer or pot and allow the steam to build.

3. Steam your face for 5–7 minutes.

4. Wear a loose, wide-necked robe so the steam reaches your neck and upper chest.

5. After steaming, gently rub 1–2 toner ice cubes over the face to cool the skin and seal the pores.

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How to Know When to Stop

Steam until steam beads collect on the forehead and can be gathered by gently pinching 1–2 inches of skin between the thumb and forefinger. This indicates that the swedana process is complete.

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What to Expect

After swedana, your skin should feel:

• Deeply cleansed

• Rehydrated

• Relaxed and rejuvenated

The skin becomes a receptive canvas for the rituals that follow. In Ayurvedic terms, swedana helps release ama (toxins and metabolic waste), unclogs pores, liquefies trapped sebum, and provides a deep epidermal cleanse that goes far beyond surface washing.

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Frequency

Perform swedana once every two weeks or as needed, depending on skin type and sensitivity.

Step Three: Exfoliate (Ubtan – Second Cleanse)

For oily, acne-prone, or congested skin, a second cleanse is essential. Rather than using foaming washes, gels, or milk cleansers—which contain surfactants that can compromise the skin barrier—Ayurveda recommends ubtans, traditional herbal exfoliants.

Exfoliating daily is as fundamental as bathing or brushing your teeth. When done correctly, it keeps pores clear, balances oil, prevents acne, and maintains healthy skin without stripping natural oils.

Ubtans have been a cornerstone of Ayurvedic household skincare for generations. Nearly every Indian grandmother has her own recipe. The formulations shared here are classical, condition-specific recipes derived from Ayurvedic texts and teachers, many of which are ancient, rarely documented, and highly effective.

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Ayurvedic Ubtan for Oily, Acneic & Congested Skin

What You Need

• 10–12 pieces Shalmali kantak (Silk cotton tree) root

• 10–12 pieces Sariva root

• 4 inches Lakadong turmeric root (highest known curcumin content)

• 2 tablespoons Multani mitti (Fuller’s earth)

• 2 tablespoons Mysore sandalwood powder
  (Australian sandalwood can be used if Mysore sandalwood is unavailable)

• Mortar and pestle (Khalava Yantra) or grinder

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How to Make & Store

1. Pound all the crude herbs into a fine powder using a mortar and pestle or grinder.

2. Mix thoroughly and store in a dark glass jar.

Shelf Life: Up to 1 year

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How to Apply

1. Take 1 tablespoon of the ubtan powder in a glass bowl.

2. Add cool A2 milk (or almond milk for a vegan option) to form a loose, smooth paste.

3. Wet the skin with milk. Avoid tap water, as it is alkaline and drying.

4. Gently massage the ubtan over the face.

5. Leave on for 1–2 minutes only.

6. Rinse off gently before the ubtan dries completely.

⚠️ Important:
Never allow the ubtan to crack or dry fully on the skin. Once dry, it loses potency and may begin to reverse its benefits, leading to dryness and irritation.

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What to Expect

This ubtan:

• Deeply cleanses without stripping natural oils

• Draws out excess sebum and congestion

• Reduces inflammation, acne, and redness

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Herbal Actions Explained

• Shalmali root: Kashaya (astringent) and sheeta (cooling). It pacifies Pitta, cools inflamed skin, and acts as a blood purifier, essential for acne control.

• Sariva: Potent for skin infections, acne vulgaris, dermatitis, and pimples. Cooling in nature and classified under Varnya Gana in the Charaka Samhita, promoting complexion and skin lustre.

• Manjishtha & Yashtimadhu: Purify the blood and enhance radiance when used topically or internally.

• Milk: Madhura (sweet) and sheeta (cooling), pacifies Pitta and Vata, while lactic acid gently resurfaces and refines the skin.

• Multani mitti: Provides kushtaghna (anti-skin disorder) and jantughna (antibacterial) benefits. Cooling and naturally brightening, it absorbs excess oil, leaving the skin fresh—reminiscent of petrichor, the fresh earth smell after rain.

Toner Recipe (2): Soothing & pH-Balancing Toner

A toner with a pH range of 4.0–6.0 closely matches the skin’s natural acid mantle, making it especially beneficial for compromised, sensitive, or irritated skin. This gentle, hydrating toner can be used frequently throughout the day to calm, soothe, and restore skin balance.

What You Need

• ½ cup rose water

• ½ cup homemade aloe vera pulp

• 1 teaspoon glycerine

How to Make & Store

1. Blend all the ingredients thoroughly until smooth.

2. Transfer the mixture into a pump-cap bottle.

3. Store in the refrigerator.

Shelf Life:

• Refrigerated bottle: up to 2 weeks

• Ice cubes: up to 1 month

Optional Storage Method (Ice Cubes):

• Pour the toner into an ice tray.

• Freeze and use cubes as needed for extra soothing benefits.

How to Apply

• With clean hands, apply 1–2 ice cubes or one pump of the toner evenly over the face.

• Use before and between every step of your skincare routine.

What to Expect

This hydrosol-based toner deeply hydrates and pacifies thirsty skin. It helps:

• Restore and maintain skin pH

• Strengthen and protect the acid mantle

• Calm irritation and sensitivity

• Leave the skin refreshed, soft, and balanced

Skin Concern One: Acneic, Oily & Congested Skin - Toner Recipe (1)

A toner is like an amuse-bouche in fine dining—it gently cleanses, awakens, and prepares the skin for what follows. Do not be deceived by the simplicity of this recipe. Though minimal, it is remarkably effective and exceptionally gentle, making it suitable for all skin types—from normal and dry to oily and acne-prone.

Always remember: fully dampen the skin with a suitable hydrosol before every step. This ensures hydration, balances oil production, and preserves the integrity of the skin’s acid mantle.

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What You Need

• ½ cup organic apple cider vinegar, with mother (unstrained, fermented)

• 5 tablespoons fresh aloe vera pulp
  (Please—always, always, ALWAYS keep an aloe plant at home. Aloe vera is known in Ayurveda as Ghrita Kumari, meaning “youth ghee.” Fresh is essential, as store-bought aloe gels often contain preservatives that may irritate the skin.)

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How to Make & Store

• Gently fold the ingredients together using a spatula.

• Transfer to a dry, dark glass jar.

• Ensure the container remains free from external moisture to prevent the growth of yeast, bacteria, or moulds that may not be visible to the naked eye.

• Shelf life: Up to 1 week when refrigerated.

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How to Apply

• Generously soak a cotton square in the toner.

• Gently dab over the face—do not rub.

• Extend application to the neck and décolleté.

• Do not forget the back of the neck, where sweat and impurities often accumulate.

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What to Expect

You may experience a mild tingling sensation—this is completely normal and beneficial. The toner works to balance the skin’s pH, draw out excess oil, and gently decongest acneic and oily skin while respecting the skin’s protective barrier.

The skin will feel clean, refreshed, and calm, without any tightness or stripping. With regular use, this toner helps reduce inflammation, soothe irritation, and restore clarity.

 

SKIN CARE—AN A-BEAUTY PERSPECTIVE

The Three Pillars of A-Beauty

रूपं गुणं वयस्त्याग इति शुभङ्गकारणम्
Roopam, gunam, vayastyag iti shubhanga karanam

Beauty that embodies outer radiance, inner light, and ageless vitality.

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What Is Ayurvedic Beauty or A-Beauty?

Rooted in tradition and shaped by millennia-old wisdom, Ayurvedic beauty rituals and recipes were bestowed upon us by the sages and seers of Ayurveda. Drawing from this timeless knowledge, I have coined the term A-Beauty.

A-Beauty is deeply personal and individual, yet intrinsically connected to social, cultural, and ceremonial expression. It views every act of masking, oiling, cleansing, and anointing as a ritual of self-love and self-care—a conscious celebration of the body, the senses, and the self.

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The Three Pillars of A-Beauty: Roopam, Gunam, Vayastyag

Roopam (Outer Beauty)

Roopam manifests as radiant, luminous, healthy skin, long and lustrous hair, and a well-toned, vibrant body. It is the visible expression of balance and nourishment.

Gunam (Inner Qualities)

Gunam is beauty that radiates from within. Purity of thought, compassion, grace, a gentle smile, and noble actions illuminate the face and elevate one’s presence. This inner light defines true beauty.

Vayastyag (Graceful Ageing & Lasting Beauty)

In Ayurveda, age is not a limitation—it is a continuum. Vayastyag represents ageless beauty achieved through mindful care of the skin, body, and health at every stage of life. It is vitality, vibrancy, and resilience that transcend chronological age.

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Rituals Rather Than Regimens

Ayurveda places immense importance on how, when, and in what order we care for the skin. These practices are known as:

• Dinacharya – daily routines

• Ritucharya – seasonal routines

Together, they guide us in aligning our skincare, diet, and lifestyle with the rhythms of nature. These principles are explored in detail later in this book.

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Dinacharya (Daily Routine)

ब्रह्मे मुहूर्त उत्तिष्ठेत् स्वस्थो रक्षार्थमायुषः
A healthy person should rise during Brahma Muhurta—before dawn.

Brahma Muhurta, approximately 45 minutes before sunrise, is considered the most auspicious time for self-care, reflection, and rejuvenation. The final three hours of the night—from 3 a.m. to 6 a.m.—are ideal for practices that support longevity and vitality.

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Ritucharya (Seasonal Routine)

ऋतुविशेषवशाच्च आहारविहारसेवानप्रतिपादनार्थं ऋतुचर्याः

With every seasonal change, both the environment and the human body undergo subtle shifts. Ayurveda prescribes specific foods, activities, and self-care practices for each ṛtu (season) to maintain harmony and prevent imbalance. This adaptive process is known as Ritucharya.

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The Correct Order of Applying Skincare

The sequence in which skincare products are applied is crucial. Incorrect layering can compromise efficacy.

For example:

• Applying a cream before a serum creates an occlusive barrier that prevents absorption.

• Misting over sunscreen dilutes its protective action.

Just as food must be eaten in the correct order for optimal digestion, the skin must be nourished in the proper sequence. After all, it is the largest organ of the body.

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Cocktails for the Skin

Is less more—or is more more?

Should skincare focus on a single hero ingredient, or is a synergistic blend more effective? How many products are necessary? And why?

The skin’s needs are complex and multifaceted. Just as no single food can nourish the entire body, no single ingredient can address all the skin’s requirements.

Essential Skin Nutrients Include:

• Antioxidants

• Omega fatty acids

• Vitamins

• Minerals

These can be found in time-tested Ayurvedic recipes, prepared at home or sourced from ethical green brands.

Modern skincare also offers ingredient cocktails—from toners and serums to moisturizers, acids, and retinol derivatives. Exciting advances in green chemistry and cosmetic R&D now allow botanicals to perform as effectively—or even better—than conventional synthetic ingredients.

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Choose Skincare as You Choose Food

Your skincare is food for your skin. Choose it thoughtfully.

Whether you prefer:

• A single ingredient

• Layered formulations

• Botanical cocktails

What matters most is understanding what works for your skin—and remaining attentive as its needs evolve over time. Listen to your skin; it will guide you.

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Skin Concerns Addressed in 

This recipes and rituals tailored to four key skin concerns:

• Acneic, oily, and congested skin

• Mature, dry, and dehydrated skin

• Sensitive, allergic, irritated, and pregnancy-related skin

• UV damage, pigmentation, and uneven skin tone

Each section includes DIY recipes, step-by-step rituals, and guidance on proper product application, ensuring clarity, safety, and effectiveness.

SKINSPEAK

Skin—sensuous, seductive, fragile, and resilient.

It is the largest organ of the human body and our first line of defense. The skin plays a vital role in immunity, shielding us from pathogens, regulating body temperature, and preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)—that familiar sensation of tightness, dryness, and dehydration.

Through the skin, we experience the world. It carries sensation—the warmth of a lover’s kiss, the sting of a blemish, the comfort of touch. It is both protector and communicator, delicate yet remarkably strong.

My recipes and rituals honour natural beauty and holistic wellness, designed to soothe, revitalise, and heal. They evoke deep serenity and indulgent pleasure simultaneously, expressing a longing to pause, recalibrate, and return to the body. These practices invite surrender—to the skin, to the senses, and to self-care as a sacred act.

Removed from the noise and urgency of urban life, I invite you to step into a tranquil, sacred space—one where calm envelops both skin and spirit, interrupted only by moments of delicious pleasure. As you experiment, blend, and create these lotions and potions, allow rejuvenation to unfold.

Celebrate your skin as it is granted a new lease on life—

luminescent, nourished, cherished, and deeply cared for.