Botanicals in Skincare

Herbs and flowers are a cornerstone of natural cosmetics. They provide multiple skin benefits and can be incorporated into formulations as:

• Hydrosols (flower waters)

• Powders

• Herbal teas

• Herbal extracts

• Essential oils

• Flower (macerated) oils

Many botanicals are easily sourced from grocery stores or grown organically at home for those wishing to formulate from scratch.

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Harvesting Guidelines for Herbs & Flowers

To preserve potency and quality:

• Correctly identify the plant and plant part (petals, buds, leaves, roots, etc.).

• Harvest on sunny days after morning dew evaporates to reduce moisture.

• For essential oil extraction, pick flowers early in the morning when oil concentration is highest.

• Avoid older plants, which may harbor insects or parasites.

• Flower buds are best harvested in spring.

• Leaves are most potent before blooming.

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Drying Herbs and Flowers

General Drying Rules

• Dry small, delicate plants whole.

• Chop larger herbs into smaller pieces.

• Do not wash before drying—moisture encourages mold.

Air-Drying Method (Best for Delicate Botanicals)

• Spread herbs on a paper towel.

• Place in a cool, ventilated area, away from:

  • Direct sunlight

  • Heat

  • Humidity

• Herbs are ready when they crumble easily between fingers.

Oven-Drying Method (Best for Roots & Heat-Tolerant Parts)

• Spread herbs in a thin layer on perforated foil.

• Place on a wire rack in the oven.

• Use the lowest temperature setting possible.

• Avoid overheating, which may degrade botanical properties.

Powdering

• Use mortar and pestle for small batches.

• Use a coffee grinder for larger quantities.

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Storage of Dried Botanicals

• Store for up to 2 years in amber glass jars.

• Keep away from:

  • Heat

  • Humidity

  • Sunlight

• Label clearly with plant name and harvest date.

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Essential Oils

• Highly concentrated, volatile, and aromatic.

• Their physiological and skin effects are well documented.

• Preferred in natural formulations over synthetic fragrances due to:

  • Better skin tolerability

  • Lower sensitization risk

• Expensive and require careful handling and precise dilution.

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Flower Oils (Macerated Oils)

• A cost-effective alternative to essential oils.

• Made by macerating fragrant flowers in a neutral carrier oil (e.g., sunflower oil).

• Allows transfer of:

  • Aroma

  • Some active plant compounds

• Less concentrated than essential oils.

• Require larger quantities in formulations.

• Provide a gentle fragrance and mild botanical benefits.

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Key Difference: Essential Oils vs. Flower Oils

Feature	Essential Oils	Flower Oils
Concentration	Very high	Low
Cost	Expensive	Affordable
Aroma strength	Strong	Mild
Usage level	Very low	Higher
Skin sensitivity risk	Higher	Lower

Vegetable Butters – Overview

 

• Texture: Thicker than oils; usually solid at room temperature

• Behavior: Liquefy when heated beyond their melting point, allowing easy blending

• Benefits:

  • Excellent moisturizers

  • Restore skin elasticity

  • Ideal for balms, creams, lotions, and hair products

• Common Uses: Stretch-mark creams, body butters, lip products, soaps, and hair care

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Natural Butters vs. Hydrogenated Oils

Natural Butters

• Naturally solid due to their fatty acid composition

• Typically cold-pressed or minimally processed

• Retain natural nutrients and bioactive compounds

Hydrogenated Oils (So-called “Butters”)

• Liquid oils chemically altered to become solid

• Hydrogenation saturates unsaturated fatty acid bonds

• May be refined, deodorized, and bleached

• Examples:

  • Hemp seed butter

  • Avocado butter

  • Sweet almond butter

• Advantages: Improved consistency and slip in creams

• Disadvantages:

  • More processed

  • Less “natural” than cold-pressed oils

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Commonly Used Natural Butters

1. Cocoa Butter (Theobroma cacao)

• Source: Cocoa bean seeds

• Key Components: Fatty acids, polyphenols

• Benefits:

  • Improves skin elasticity

  • Helps reduce stretch marks

• Characteristics:

  • Solid, chocolaty aroma (unless deodorized)

• Caution:

  • Potentially comedogenic

  • Not ideal for facial or acne-prone skin

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2. Kokum Butter (Garcinia indica)

• Source: Indian garcinia tree

• Key Properties:

  • Regenerative and healing

  • Astringent

• Benefits:

  • Absorbs easily upon contact with skin

• Best Uses:

  • Balms, soaps, lip products, foot creams

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3. Mango Butter (Mangifera indica)

• Source: Mango fruit kernels

• Texture: Hard butter

• Key Components: Fatty acids, vitamins, minerals

• Benefits:

  • Prevents dryness and wrinkles

  • Soothes and moisturizes skin

• Best Uses:

  • Lipsticks, lip balms, nourishing creams

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4. Murumuru Butter (Astrocaryum murumuru)

• Source: Brazilian murumuru palm fruit

• Key Components:

  • Essential fatty acids

  • Vitamin A precursors

• Benefits:

  • Anti-aging

  • Deeply nourishing

• Best Uses:

  • Anti-aging creams

  • Lip and body balms

• Note: Very mild scent compared to cocoa butter

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5. Shea Butter (Vitellaria paradoxa)

• Source: Shea tree nuts (African “tree of life”)

• Key Components:

  • Vitamins A & E

  • Antioxidant phenolic compounds

• Benefits:

  • Highly moisturizing

  • Improves skin elasticity

  • Nourishes and softens skin

  • Helps improve acne scars

• Advantages:

  • Non-comedogenic

  • More suitable for acne-prone skin than cocoa butter

• Uses:

  • Creams, lotions, balms, and hair products

Skin Care Ingredients

 

1. Camelina Oil (Camelina sativa)

• Source: Seeds of “false flax” or wild flax.

• Skin Type: Aging, dry skin; also suitable for hair.

• Key Components:

  • Omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids (mainly ALA)

  • Vitamins and antioxidants

• Benefits:

  • Anti-aging and antioxidant-rich

  • Supports skin and hair health

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2. Camellia Seed Oil (Camellia oleifera)

• Source: Seeds of camellia plant (tea oil).

• Skin Type: Dry, mature, sensitive, or acne-prone skin; nails and hair.

• Key Components:

  • Oleic acid (up to 85%)

  • Antioxidants

• Benefits:

  • Quick absorption, light oil

  • Moisturizes and nourishes

  • Can be used in after-sun oil or as makeup remover

• Usage: 2–12% dilution

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3. Carrot Oil (Daucus carota)

• Source: Carrot plant.

• Skin Type: Aging skin.

• Key Components:

  • Vitamin E, carotenes (beta-carotene)

• Benefits:

  • Anti-aging, reduces appearance of wrinkles

• Usage: 2–5% dilution; avoid during pregnancy

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4. Castor Oil (Ricinus communis)

• Source: Castor beans.

• Skin Type: Aging skin, skin blemishes, scars; eyelashes.

• Key Components:

  • Ricinoleic acid (monounsaturated fatty acid)

• Benefits:

  • Humectant, anti-aging

  • Promotes fuller, longer eyelashes

  • Improves scars and skin discoloration

• Caution: Toxic if ingested; contraindicated in pregnancy

• Usage: Dilute with other carrier oils

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5. Cherry Seed Oil (Prunus cerasus)

• Source: Seeds of cherries.

• Skin Type: Oily skin; sun-exposed skin.

• Key Components:

  • Oleic acid, vitamins A & E

• Benefits:

  • Gentle moisturizer with antioxidant properties

  • Provides some astringency

  • May protect from sun damage

• Usage: Can be used alone or blended

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6. Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifer)

• Source: Coconut tree.

• Skin Type: Most skin types; skin and body care.

• Key Components:

  • Antioxidants, medium-chain fatty acids

• Benefits:

  • Antimicrobial, anti-aging

  • Quick absorption, non-comedogenic

• Usage: Can be applied directly or in formulations

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7. Cranberry Seed Oil (Vaccinium macrocarpon)

• Source: Seeds of cranberry.

• Skin Type: Aging skin; hair care.

• Key Components:

  • High vitamin E, omega-3 & omega-6 fatty acids

  • Phytosterols and vitamin A

• Benefits:

  • Antioxidant-rich, UV protection

  • Supports collagen formation

  • Moisturizes skin and strengthens hair

• Usage: ~5% dilution

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8. Cucumber Seed Oil (Cucumis sativus)

• Source: Seeds of cucumber.

• Skin Type: Aging, dry, or irritated skin.

• Key Components:

  • Linoleic acid (~60%), phytosterols

  • Vitamin E

• Benefits:

  • Protects skin elasticity and lipid barrier

  • Moisturizes, reduces wrinkles

• Usage: 10–25% in formulations

Skin Care Ingredients

 

1. Sunflower Oil (Helianthus annuus)

• Source: Cold-pressed from sunflower seeds.

• Skin Type: Sensitive, delicate, mature skin.

• Key Components:

  • High in oleic acid

  • Vitamins A & E

• Benefits:

  • Gentle, suitable for sensitive skin

  • Nourishes and moisturizes dry, weathered skin

  • Anti-aging properties for mature skin

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2. Tomato Seed Oil (Solanum lycopersicum)

• Source: Extracted from tomato seeds.

• Skin Type: Mature, sun-damaged, dehydrated skin.

• Key Components:

  • Antioxidants

  • Vitamins & minerals

  • Lycopene (a powerful antioxidant)

• Benefits:

  • Protects against oxidative stress

  • Hydrates and revitalizes mature skin

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3. Walnut Oil (Juglans regia)

• Source: Pressed from walnuts.

• Skin Type: Mature skin

• Key Components:

  • Polyunsaturated fatty acids (omega-3:omega-6 = 1:5)

  • Vitamins (B complex), minerals (manganese, phosphorus)

  • Antioxidants

• Benefits:

  • Moisturizes and nourishes

  • Fights wrinkles

  • Soothes inflammation

• Recommended Usage: 10–15%

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4. Wheat Germ Oil (Triticum vulgare)

• Source: Extracted from the germ of wheat.

• Skin Type: Mature skin, cracked skin, scars, stretch marks

• Key Components:

  • Extremely high in vitamin E (≈255 mg/100 g)

  • Linoleic acid and mixed tocopherols

• Benefits:

  • Anti-aging and regenerative

  • Moisturizes damaged skin

• Recommended Usage: 5–10%

• Caution: Avoid if allergic to wheat or gluten

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5. Flower/Herb Oils

• Method: Made by macerating herbs or flowers in a carrier oil (e.g., arnica flowers in jojoba oil).

• Properties:

  • Transfers the scent and some properties of the plant to the oil

  • Filtered oil retains some original benefits of the herb or flower

Skin Care Ingredients

 

1. Red Raspberry Seed Oil (Rubus idaeus)

• Source: Seeds of red raspberries.

• Skin Type: Sun-exposed, aging skin; suitable for sunscreen formulations.

• Key Components:

  • Vitamins E & A

  • Polyunsaturated fatty acids: linoleic, alpha-linolenic, oleic acids

  • Antioxidants

• Benefits:

  • UV-filtering properties

  • Supports skin rejuvenation

  • Anti-aging, antioxidant-rich

• Usage: 5–10% in formulations; can be used undiluted

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2. Rice Bran Oil (Oryza sativa)

• Source: Bran of the rice kernel.

• Skin Type: Sensitive skin; nut allergy-friendly; sun-exposed skin.

• Key Components:

  • Vitamins E & antioxidants

  • Fatty acids: oleic, linoleic, palmitic

• Benefits:

  • Emollient and moisturizer

  • Absorbs UV light (sunscreen applications)

• Usage: 5–100%, depending on formulation

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3. Rosehip Oil (Rosa mosqueta / Rosa rubiginosa)

• Source: Seeds of wild rose bushes.

• Skin Type: Dry, mature, scarred, or sun-damaged skin.

• Key Components:

  • Polyunsaturated fatty acids: linoleic, gamma-linolenic (~80%)

  • Vitamins A & C, lycopene

• Benefits:

  • Supports skin regeneration

  • Reduces wrinkles and scars

  • Protects against sun damage

• Usage: Typically 10%, can be up to 100%

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4. Safflower Oil (Carthamus tinctorius)

• Source: Seeds of safflower plant.

• Skin Type: Dry, aging skin.

• Key Components:

  • Fatty acids: oleic and linoleic acids

  • Vitamin E

• Benefits:

  • Moisturizes and prevents moisture loss

  • Protects from sun damage and premature aging

Skin Care Ingredients

1. Kukui Nut Oil (Aleurites moluccana)

• Source: Nuts of the candlenut tree, native to Hawaii.

• Skin Type: Chapped, irritated, dry skin.

• Key Components:

  • Linoleic acid

  • Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA)

• Benefits:

  • Deep hydration

  • Soothes irritation and inflammation

  • Long-used traditional moisturizer

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2. Macadamia Oil (Macadamia integrifolia)

• Source: Nuts of the macadamia tree.

• Skin Type: Dry, mature skin; compatible with all skin types.

• Key Components:

  • Monounsaturated fatty acids, especially palmitoleic acid

• Benefits:

  • Quick absorption

  • Antioxidative protection

  • Supports scar healing and sunburn relief

  • Regenerative for dry or mature skin

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3. Neem Oil (Azadirachta indica)

• Source: Seeds of the neem tree.

• Skin/Hair Use: Hair care, antibacterial/antifungal skin applications.

• Key Components:

  • Antibacterial, antifungal, antiparasitic compounds

• Benefits:

  • Strengthens hair, enhances shine

  • Insect-repellent

• Caution: Strong scent; may affect formulation fragrance

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4. Olive Oil (Olea europaea)

• Source: Cold-pressed from olive fruits.

• Skin Type: Dry or sensitive skin.

• Key Components:

  • Oleic acid

  • Vitamins E & A

• Benefits:

  • Moisturizes without clogging pores

  • Softens and soothes skin

  • Can be used as massage oil or in formulations (~10%)

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5. Plum Kernel Oil (Prunus domestica)

• Source: Kernels of plum fruits.

• Skin Type: Sensitive, dry skin.

• Key Components:

  • Vitamins E & A

  • Oleic and linoleic acids

  • Antioxidants

• Benefits:

  • Gentle moisturizer

  • Antioxidant-rich

  • Similar properties to almond and apricot oils

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6. Pomegranate Seed Oil (Punica granatum)

• Source: Seeds of the pomegranate fruit.

• Skin Type: Dry, mature, sun-damaged skin.

• Key Components:

  • Antioxidants

  • Fatty acids (oleic, linoleic)

• Benefits:

  • Anti-aging, fast absorption

  • Supports sun protection formulations

• Usage: ~10% in formulations

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7. Pumpkin Seed Oil (Cucurbita pepo)

• Source: Seeds of the pumpkin.

• Skin Type: Mature, dry, or barrier-compromised skin.

• Key Components:

  • Vitamins A & C, zinc

  • Omega-3 & omega-6 fatty acids (linoleic, oleic)

  • Phytosterols and antioxidants

• Benefits:

  • Nourishes and rejuvenates skin

  • Supports skin barrier function

  • Anti-aging and protective

Skin Care Ingredients

 1. Evening Primrose Oil (Oenothera biennis)

• Source: Seeds of evening primrose plant.

• Skin Type: Mature, irritated, rosacea or acne-prone skin; also for hair and nails.

• Key Components:

  • Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) up to 9%

  • Anti-inflammatory compounds

• Benefits:

  • Anti-aging and anti-inflammatory

  • Soothes irritated skin

  • Supports healthy hair and nails

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2. Flaxseed Oil (Linum usitatissimum)

• Source: Seeds of the flax plant.

• Skin Type: Aging, inflamed skin.

• Key Components:

  • Omega-3 alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) 52–63%

  • Phytoestrogens (lignans, may be reduced during processing)

• Benefits:

  • Strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity

  • Supports anti-aging formulations

• Caution: Highly prone to oxidation; stabilize with vitamin E and refrigerate

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3. Grape Seed Oil (Vitis vinifera)

• Source: Seeds of common grapevine.

• Skin Type: Oily, acne-prone, or when non-greasy finish is desired.

• Key Components:

  • Antioxidants

  • Light, non-greasy fatty acids

• Benefits:

  • Absorbs quickly, leaves no residue

  • Suitable as a carrier oil for nut allergies

• Usage: 1–3% in serums and skincare products

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4. Hazelnut Oil (Corylus avellana)

• Source: Seeds of hazelnut.

• Skin Type: Oily, acne-prone skin.

• Key Components:

  • Mildly astringent compounds

• Benefits:

  • Reduces oiliness and may improve thread veins

  • Can be used in sunscreens for mild sun protection

• Usage: 10% dilution or up to 100% of the oil phase

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5. Hemp Seed Oil (Cannabis sativa)

• Source: Seeds of hemp plant.

• Skin Type: Dry, mature skin.

• Key Components:

  • ~80% polyunsaturated fatty acids

  • Omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids

• Benefits:

  • Closely mimics natural skin lipids

  • Lightweight, dry oil, absorbs easily

  • Anti-inflammatory and nourishing

• Usage: 2.5–10% in formulations

• Caution: Sensitive to oxidation; store in dark, cool containers

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6. Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia chinensis)

• Source: Seeds of jojoba plant; technically a liquid wax.

• Skin Type: All skin types, including acne-prone and sensitive skin.

• Key Components:

  • High in tocopherols (vitamin E)

  • Low in polyunsaturated fatty acids

• Benefits:

  • Mimics natural sebum; regulates sebum production

  • Improves softness, hydration, and reduces fine lines

  • Excellent for hair and scalp care

• Usage: Can be used 100% alone or blended as needed

• Special Note: Very stable, highly resistant to rancidity